After dropping off my last travel buddy, I still had about three weeks before Fantasia arrived, so I set out looking for adventure.
First up was back to Nelson Lakes to hike to the St. Angelus Hut. The first 3 hours were amazing and sunny, stunning 360 views, and I was moving fast.
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| Ridgeline trail |
Now I had been warned a wee number of times about the weather in New Zealand, especially on the ridges. A sunny day can turn into a stormy, ice cold, hailing, fog so dense you can't see, winds so high they blow you off the mountain, pit of darkness in a matter of 20 minutes. I saw some clouds in the distance that didn't look too bad, but a half hour later, they looked dark and menacing. Within an hour I was being blown so hard I had to walk sideways so my pack wouldn't knock me off kilter. I threw on my gloves, hat, and heaviest coat, still cold to the misty rain coming down. The ridge line trail that started out exciting and beautiful quickly became a slippery terrifying stumble as the fog crept of the mountains towards me. Soon I was picking out the next trail pole marker in the fog, one by one, hoping I would be able to see the next one.
Where was this stupid cabin? I had been hiking 6 hours or so when I saw something in the distance. A sign! 30 mins to the cabin yippy! I slipped down the side of the mountain to the lake with a large cabin on the left hand side, you might be able to pick it out in the picture below. The cabin housed over 30 people, 7 there this evening. We built a fire and watched the hail, rain, and fog in a lovely dance, falling to sleep early.
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| View the second day between fog clouds |
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| The sign of hope! You can almost make out the next marker... |
Two more wet, rainy days staying in huts along the way to dry out, and I relieve myself from the Nelson Lakes area. Back to Nelson for a pub visit with the longterm students and b-day party with some local friends, then back to the woods. Mt. Arthur called my name so off I went in the Trusty Steed. The weather seemed to be okay to start, and I made it to the first cabin, set down my gear and headed to the peak.
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| View looking back at the ridge hike trail to Angelus Hut |
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| Hiking up to Mt. Arthur |
Almost to the top when the winds swarmed around me, attempting to take the coat off my back. The peak in in the fog in the photo below. I headed back to the hut and since it was mid-day, continued my hike to the next cabin for a splendid evening with a German and Swiss, beating them at cards.
The rain came to stay for the next week, so I headed over to the west coast. The lodge at Gentle Annie's, outside of Westport was cheap so I booked a room instead of putting up my tent. Turns out I was the only one to book a room. I spent the evening with a fire in the fireplace, listening to music, enjoying some local beer and adding to my journal. It was wonderful to be alone in a huge lodge, listening to the rain and wind, cozy by the fire.
The next day I headed up to Karamea, the northern most point on the road on the west coast. I visited the Oparara Basin to see the huge rock arches and caves you can explore without a guide. Scary! Luckily there was another young lady in the caves so we explored the depths together, shimming into passageways and up through holes.
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| largest swing bridge in NZ |
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| Weeeeeee |
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| Hiking up to the Rock Arches |
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| Oparara Arch |
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| Cool cave entrance at the Moria Arch |
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| Moria Arch |
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| Entrance to the large self-guided Box Canyon cave system |
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| Moria Cave Arch |
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| Cave at the Oparara Arch |
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| Fire at Gentle Annie's |
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| View from Gentle Annie's |
I ventured a few hours down the west coast before the rain turned me towards the east coast in hopes of greener pastures. Spent Thanksgiving at Hamner Springs with a massage and lots of down time in the hot pools and exploring the little town.
The east coast was indeed sunnier! I ventured through Kaikoura and the surrounding beaches. Lots of seal pups, short day hikes, and endless walks collecting shells.
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| Driving to the East Coast - Mid drive hike |
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| Lake Taylor |
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| Camping at Lake Taylor |
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| Perfected the spicy breakfast egg sandwich out of the car |
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| Morning view on Lake Taylor |
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| East Coast |
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| Kaikoura Coastal Walk |
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| Foggy Morning in Kaikoura |
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| Seals! |
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| Seal pups |
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| Beach time in the White Bay campground |
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| Mermaid Cave |
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| Storm evening in Kaikoura |
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| Pretty flowers |
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| Top of Mt. Stokes |
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| Mt. Stokes view |
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| I fit in the car for sleeping! |
That last pic was from the sounds, the most northern part of the south island, where I found out I can fit and sleep in the trusty steed! Sooo much rain before hiking Mt. Stokes. Turns out a yoga mat, sleeping pad, two sleeping bags, and a duffle of clothes make a nice little car bed :) I hunkered down for hot soup, whiskey and a good book this dreary evening.
Cheers!
Christina
